sus·te·nance/ˈsəstənəns/Noun
1. Food and drink regarded as a source of strength; nourishment.
Just a place to dump our recommendations and other food-related musings. A few highlights so far:
La Bitta, Dorsoduro, Venice – A “slow food” restaurant. Cozy and fairly unpretentious with service that verged on friendly. Shared three plates – a warm smoked ricotta on salad, Porchetta with horseradish sauce, and a pumpkin gnocchi with smoked mozzerella. Oh, and tiramisu for dessert.
Ai Tosi Grandi, (Castello, Venice) – touted as having the best pizza in Venice. Probably true having tried it! We had walked all over Venice for 5 hours (and toward Ai Tosi) and finally had to ask someone how to get to this neighborhood restaurant by the Arsenal. Got there at 2:15, and they were still serving lunch (even though sign outside said 2pm). We had Capricosa pizzas (ham, artichoke, mushroom). Very tasty. Worth the walk.
Ristorante Silvio (Bellagio, Italy) While it may sound odd to put food after atmosphere, that was our take on what made Silvio’s worth it. Late December is clearly out of season, so there was not a large selection on the menu (and they used canned corn on my insalata mista). All that being said, getting the chance to have a pre-dinner drink and, later, dessert by the fireplace in the lobby made the evening worth the very good but not excellent food.
Osteria dell’Orsa (Bologna, Italy) We ate lunch (and dinner) in this cozy and seemingly local-filled trattoria. Following lunch, Jamie put it in his “top 10” meals category, even though all we ate were panini. That either says something about where we eat or, more accurately, that this little hole-in-the-wall with communal tables is molto bene. We chose the prosciutto di Parma, tomato, cream cheese and artichoke tapenade panini… so good! And, a bargain at 5 Euros. Hard to find those. Dinner was fine, though the Cotoletto a bit intimidating…
Trattoria della Rosso (Bologna, Italy) We got into this no frills trattoria right before the onslaught of local customers crashed the gates. While service was brusque, our food was hearty and fresh (Lasagne and Tortelloni al Ragu). No pressure to order more than one piatti was refreshing after a disastrous dinner in Parma of which we won’t bore you with the details (though Kate did pen a scathing review on yahoo.com entitled “Do not waste your time or money at Angiol ‘Dor”).
We ate at only two places in Florence, and one is worth noting — Antico Noé. We even tried to duplicate our meal at home, to some noteworthy success! Jamie fell in love with Tuscan white beans. I delved into a scrumptious carbonara with artichokes. The pepper-crusted prosciutto with buffalo mozzerella and fresh tomatoes was divine. If you’re in Florence, look for the tiny storefront. You’ll sit on a stool and use paper napkins, but our experience is that the meal transcended the atmosphere.
Sarah Jensen is building a case against Turkey for Thanksgiving (and we might just agree).
Sarah’s delight on Thanksgiving was palpable. No mushy root vegetables! No dry bird! No forcing a smile while digesting gourds disguised as pies! She recently shared this piece:
Here’s a great excerpt: “Then I began to tell the children the story of the first Thanksgiving: In England, along time ago, there were people called Pilgrims who were very strict about making everyone observe the Sabbath and cooked food without any flavor and that sort of thing, and they decided to go to America, where they could enjoy Freedom to Nag. The other people in England said, “Glad to see the back of them.” In America, the Pilgrims tried farming, but they couldn’t get much done because they were always putting their best farmers in the stocks for crimes like Suspicion of Cheerfulness. The Indians took pity on the Pilgrims and helped them with their farming, even though the Indians thought that the Pilgrims were about as much fun as teenage circumcision. The Pilgrims were so grateful that at the end of their first year in America they invited the Indians over for a Thanksgiving meal. The Indians, having had some experience with Pilgrim cuisine during the year, took the precaution of taking along one dish of their own. They brought a dish that their ancestors had learned from none other than Christopher Columbus, who was known to the Indians as “the big Italian fellow.” The dish was spaghetti carbonara–made with pancetta bacon and fontina and the best imported prosciutto. The Pilgrims hated it. They said it was “heretically tasty” and “the work of the devil” and “the sort of thing foreigners eat.” The Indians were so disgusted that on the way back to their village after dinner one of them made a remark about the Pilgrims that was repeated down through the years and unfortunately caused confusion among historians about the first Thanksgiving meal. He said,
“What a bunch of turkeys!”
Eating out in Rome
Ok, to be honest, we’ve had a grand total of about 5 meals out since arriving three weeks ago. We’ve worked hard at living in the city as we might if we were at home — with the fun twist that this is Rome, and so small cheese and meat markets and veggie stands have replaced jaunts to Whole Foods and Stop and Shop. Admittedly, we do use Despar pretty frequently for staples like milk, cereal, and chicken… we’re eating a lot of chicken. Anyway, here are a few favorite haunts:
Da Baffetto. It’s in every guide book; but, we stumbled on it somewhat unknowingly in our first week. We returned with the Jensens, and the thin, thin crust pizzas don’t disappoint. We had the same waiter both times, and he warmed up to us (and served the jetlagged, haven’t-slept-in-24-hours kids first on a very busy Friday — big points). Crowds were minimal in November, so we didn’t wait more than 15 minutes either time. We’ve read that in high season people wait hours.
La Renella. Again, stumbled on it while walking in the rain in Trastevere. Then, read about it in Food, Wine, Rome when we got home — apparently it’s a Trastevere classic. There is something to the notion of following the crowd. La Renella was packed, we were hungry, and it was pouring; so, we peeked in and took a look at the wide variety of pizzas — some Pizza Bianca, some with toppings a la Antonio’s (in Amherst, for those who know it). Jamie ordered potato, sausage and mozzerella. I went for mushroom. Hearty and inexpensive (2.40 Euros for two honking pieces); a great find.
Caffe Sant’Eustachio is known as having the best coffee in Rome. While I have not sampled too many cappuccinos here (ok, that’s a lie), the hearty Cappuccino Gran’caffe is actually worth the almost two and-a-half Euros you shell out to stand at the bar (almost 3 times more expensive than the less good but certainly worth drinking cappucinos I have had elsewhere.)
Emilio Volpetti & C.
Kirk got us on to this one — and wow, was it worth the walk to Testaccio (twice). We gathered most of the ingredients for our Thanksgiving meal here (along with veggies and sausage from the open market nearby. It’s the sort of shop where they give you samples (of cheese and salami, and of another cheese and another salami, and of the to-die-for pizza bianca) and you can’t help but buy “just a little” of everything you try until you have way more than you thought you should… but it’s all so good, you don’t care.
A whole blog dedicated to Italian Artichokes. Heaven. http://theartichokeblog.com/
A COOKING CLASS with Chef Andrea in Trastevere!
Here are pictures and the ‘menu’ from our Roman cooking adventure. If you’re ever in Rome and up for a fun and relaxed (and truly affordable) day in the kitchen, we’d highly recommend this class. Kate stumbled on it online, but it turns out that it’s gotten lots of good reviews all over the internet: http://www.cookingclassesinrome.com/
Menu: fried Roman artichokes; hand rolled gnocchi with fresh tomato sauce; Beef Saltimbocca; Molten chocolate souffle
Chef Andrea and his partner Erica welcomed us into his kitchen at La Fate Restaurant in Trastevere at 10 o’clock this morning. We walked over from our place, stopping to get a cappuccino on the way (if only every morning started this way…. ahhhh!).
Chef Andrea acquaints us with the ingredients.
From the moment we arrived he had us working — separating eggs for the souffle, melting the chocolate, peeling potatoes for the gnocchi, tearing basil and chopping tomatoes for the sauce. All the way along he taught us about the different ways to choose and handle food (for example, old potatoes are best for gnocchi because they contain less water; never cut basil with a knife because it oxidizes it, turning the edge brown). It was a true culinary lesson — lots of cooking chemistry and local history thrown in! The philosophy of Le Fate restaurant is everything must be local and in season — a mantra we’re all hearing more these days. Slow Food, as they say.
Andrea teaching us how to peel an artichoke properly
So, As Andrea explained, if you go to a restaurant in September and order the gnocchi with fresh tomato sauce and you love it, DO NOT expect to arrive in May and get the same sauce. The tomatoes are different at that time of year, so the sauce won’t taste the same. Not that this was a surprise, but we also got to do a taste test of fresh sauce and sauce made with canned tomatoes; you can guess which one tasted better! (We also learned they only serve gnocchi on Thursdays in Rome because it takes three days to make it… another story for another time.) All of the ingredients we used were in-season, even the artichokes. But, because it’s not spring, they weren’t those good, big fat ones we’re all used to seeing. We got to taste the fruits of our labors at the end, and they were fantastic. Better yet, easy to replicate at home… so if you live near us, we may just be inviting you over for a Roman feast sometime in the future. Buon appetito. Anyway, here are some pictures (click on any of the pictures to enlarge). I’ll let them speak for themselves!
Our First home-cooked Roman meal started with inspiration from my girl Deb at Smitten Kitchen…. I am certain I could use her blog and nothing else to cook and be happy for the rest of my life. At any rate, check her out. Following our adventure to an open air market and to DeSpar (thank god for South Africa, where we learned that Spar is, indeed, a grocery store)… for the simple ingredients (all three) needed to make: Tomato Sauce with Onion and Butter
If you’re wondering, it smells so warm and savory and a little sweet simmering on the stove! November in a saucepan. We coupled that with a little al dente spaghetti, a tomato and basil salad (basil from our new plant, of course, with olive oil and a dash of balsamic). Then, a little beer for Jamie and a little vino for me. And, voila. Easy peasy dinner.
Boston/ Toro (Washington Street, South End): Not a “new” restaurant for us, but if you’re from Boston — or nearby– and you’ve not yet been to Toro, run don’t walk. We had a fantastic meal with the Boyle clan while we were home — all the usual suspects (the corn, brussels sprouts, cod fritters, short ribs, hummus, datiles con jambon, and one or two others). Named one of Boston’s Top 50 Restaurants recently, we could have told you long ago that it was worth the hour or more you usually have to wait. Plus, they have dollar Narragansetts. Used to be dollar PBR, but we think it must not be hipster enough anymore. They said they were trying to “buy local.” Pish tosh. Regardless of their silly beer logic, get there soon.
Johannesburg, SA/ Corner House Pizza: A new ALA Friday tradition that started on the night of our arrival on campus — we think it might be our legacy, as sad as that sounds. Cheap and tasty wood grilled pizza. Even cheaper beer (2 bucks a pop for Castle). Lots of outside seating and plenty of excellent people watching. Plus, the band that plays every Friday does as mean a cover of “Englishman in New York” as it does “Sweet Home Alabama.” Sweet home, indeed.
Rosebank, SA/ Shawarma King, Rosebank Sunday Market: Not much else to say other than it’s good, cheap Shawarma. Both beef and falafel hit the mark, with plenty of toppings to choose from… and at R24 (about $4.00) you can’t beat the price.
Honeydew, SA / Mozambik: Right near ALA on Beyers Naude. We trekked to Mozambik on the recommendation of many friends after a long, very hot day of game viewing in Pilanesberg (and for the record, Jamie convinced me to end a 3-hour nap to do it; totally worth it.) From the garlicky grilled spinach to the succulent grilled prawns and chicken to the crisp house wine — every dish exceeded expectations. Two thumbs up!
OUR FIRST OFFICIAL BRAAI:
Who will be the next "tong master"?
(Pronounced “BRY”) In light of the picture above, I love this Wikipedia entry on the social norms of a braai: “A braai is a social occasion that has specific traditions and social norms. In black and white South African culture, women rarely braai (cook) meat at a social gathering, as this is normally the preserve of men. The men gather round the braai or braaistand (the fire or grill) outdoors and cook the food, while women prepare the pap, salads, desserts, and vegetables for the meal in the kitchen. The meal is subsequently eaten outside by the fire/braai, since the activity is normally engaged in during the long summer months. The braaing (cooking) of the meat is not the prerogative of all the men attending, as one person would normally be in charge. He will attend to the fire, check that the coals are ready, and braai (cook) the meat. Other men may assist but generally only partake in fireside conversation. This is very similar to how Australian and American backyard barbecues often run. In South Africa, the person in charge is known as the braaier or tong-master (chef).”
Asheville, NC / Tupelo Honey Cafe (http://www.tupelohoneycafe.com/): Asheville seemed to be all about local food. THC (we’re so close we’re on a nickname basis now) proved a good place to get fresh, southern-inspired food. We did lunch and both walked away happy. The sweet potato mash and fried chicken BLT – yum.
Knoxville, TN / Calhoun’s: You know what? It’s a chain, sure, but the ribs were really good. And if you know Jamie, you know he’s a bit of a rib snob (deservedly so, says Kate). It’s also right on the river, so the outdoor seating is pretty scenic.
East Nashville, TN / I Dream of Weenie: The trusty Fodor’s guide rarely does us wrong. I Dream of Weenie is a VW Bus turned artsy hot dog stand. It lies just off the beaten path and served as our first stop in town. Frankly, it did not disappoint.
RECIPES:
This week’s project has been using what’s in our cupboards and freezer. Since I made Hello Dollies earlier in the week (see Kate for this recipe and a few others), I essentially merged the leftover ingredients with the Barefoot Contessa “Chocolate Chunk Cookie” recipe. Ina G. is always spot on, and in this case, I think I may have ameliorated her recipe, if that is even possible.
“Barefoot Contessa, meet Dolly. Dolly, meet the Barefoot Contessa” Cookies
I could eat this without baking it
Preheat oven to 35o degrees. For best results (says Ina) ingredients should all be at room temperature. Quite honestly, measurements for oatmeal, chips and coconut are approximations. I used what I had left and adjusted the amount of flour accordingly.
1/2 lb. unsalted butter
2 eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla (in my opinion, the added vanilla makes these cookies what they are)
1 cup light brown sugar (packed)
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 1/2 cups flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 cup oatmeal
1 cup shredded coconut
1 cup chocolate chips
1/2 cup butterscotch chips
Mix butter and two sugars until smooth. Add vanilla. Add eggs one at a time. Sift in flour and baking powder at medium speed. Add oatmeal, then chips and coconut. On parchment paper lined baking sheets, plunk down dollops of the dough in a size of your liking. Bake 11-13 minutes.
Get in my belly!
Roving with the Ramsdells 